However, for the sake of not being repetitive, only those problems relevant to gas water heaters are listed below. Excessive amounts of sediment laying in the tank cause the bottom to overheat and boil instead of heat the water.Ĭommon water heater problems for gas appliances experience similar problems as electric powered units do.Heating elements have a larger than normal amount of scale buildup.As the bacteria die and decay, they create smelly, hydrogen gases that are passed through your plumbing. The water heater tank contains sediment laden with bacteria.Water heater is too small to handle hot water demand. Crossed plumbing lines - hot water line connected to cold tank inlet and vice versa - due to improper installation.Most water heaters are factory pre-set to 120 degrees Farenheit. Heating element thermostat is set too high.T&P valve is faulty, stuck open, overheating or open due to excessive pressure inside the tank.Water heater storage tank has excessive corrosion and has failed or ruptured.Leaking heating element gasket due to under or over tightening.This can also lead to unexpected leaks or ruptures. Glass lined water heater tank is experiencing excessive corrosion.The sacrificial anode rod has failed, causing the tank to rust.An interruption of power to the appliance (tripped circuit breaker or blown fuse).Incorrect thermostat setting or faulty thermostat.Broken or malfunctioning heating elements.The symptoms of a malfunctioning electric water heater can vary between the mild and extreme. Being aware of the signs that lead to water heater failure can alert you to a potential problem and avoid being left out in the cold. The two most common types of water heaters used in residential housing are electric or gas operated units. Common water heater problems can cause the unit to malfunction, producing only warm water or worse. They work around the clock to provide heated water at your beckon call. Once the loosened immersion heater element has cooled, remove it by hand.Water heaters are the silent workhorses of every households. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until the immersion heater element is loose enough to move.Īs soon as you can see it moving when you tap the spanner handle with a hammer, move on to step 3. With a little luck, the application of heat should have loosened the immersion heater element to the point where it will turn when you tap your spanner handle with a hammer. This should make it easier to loosen the immersion heater element. This heat will cause the copper in the boss to expand faster than the metal at the base of the immersion heater element, which will loosen the grip of the screw thread inside the boss. Unscrew and remove the thermostat, if you haven’t done so already.Īpply heat around the edges of the immersion heater element with the blow torch. Make sure your immersion heater element is clear of all insulation, removing more foam if necessary. It’s possible to loosen the joint by applying heat around the edge of the immersion heater element. You may also need a screwdriver and a Stanley knife if your tank is insulated with polyurethane foam. To help to solve the problem, you will need a blowtorch. This can make it more difficult to loosen and remove an immersion heater element from a hot water cylinder. Immersion heater elements that have been in situ for a long time can also seize inside the copper boss. Some tradesmen or DIYers pad out the thread on the outside of immersion heater elements with things like PTFE tape, jointing compound, sealant or even super glue because they are worried about leaks. Try not to get frustrated – DIYers who allow a stiff immersion heater element to get to them often end up doing damage to their hot water cylinder and having to pay for the whole thing to be replaced!
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